Chilean music: The perfect stranger

One of the most beautiful parts of learning another language is discovering that there is a whole other world out there filled with books, poetry and music that you didn’t know existed and all of a sudden you’ve been handed the code to open its gates. My motivation to learn Spanish came one night sitting on a starlit beach in Costa Rica with my Argentinian friend, Ami. As she and I sat there, a young man came with his guitar and began to serenade us. The song was Loca, by the band Chico Trujillo, and I was instantly enamored by the melody and the rhythm. I knew then that I not only had to find the lyrics to this song but also understand them. Flash forward two years later to Santiago de Chile, this time seated on the patio of my cozy hostel enjoying the summer night air and drinking some wine, when a different young man with his guitar again began to play Loca for me. This man was my soon-to-be friend and hitchhiking companion, Ricardo.

What started as a motivation to learn another language quickly transformed into a passion in its own right. To me, Chilean music is not like any other music in Latin America, there is something in almost every band and genre – from folk and jazz to indie and metal – that invokes an obscure sense of nostalgia. Perhaps this internal sentiment in Chilean music come from the country’s attachment to its pre-Spanish heritage and from its harrowing dictatorship past*. Victor Jara, who’s musical fame was probably the first to transcend Chilean borders, is a name synonymous with civil martyrdom. With the torture and controversial death of Victor came a new generation of fearless musicians who wanted to be heard by anyone that would listen. The 80’s produced much in the way of protest folk and the band every Chilean grew up listing to: Los Prisionarios. In the 1990’s there was an eruption of bands in all possible styles but at the forefront of this new generation was the band Los Tres. A mix of rock, pop and cueca*, Los Tres became a national cannon hurtling the cultural spirit of Chilean music into an international scene. With the 2000’s came the advent of the internet and downloadable music. As with the rest of the world, this plunged record sales in Chile to a minimum and ousted the monopoly large labels held over smaller bands. The adjustment pioneered a way for independent labels and recaptured the essence of past generations. One band that is currently making waves in Santiago and all over Chile is Perfectos Extraños. I’m lucky enough to know the bassist and since he owed me a favour after tricking me into being hitchhiking bait a few years ago, he granted me an interview recently.

 

Besides being the videographer, online media manager and frequent jokester, Ricardo, is also Perfectos Extraños bassist. He has been independently making music and writing for many years but finally found a project that he believes in as much as they believe in him. He told me it’s nice to finally be involved with a band that is as dedicated to their passion for music as he is.
“To me, music is an important thing in life, if not the most important thing. I’m a very anxious guy and I need to have my mind occupied, so music helps me focus, relax, and even isolate myself creatively. Music has been my partner in life; it kills my demons. Music is forever, we are not”.
Karen – who Ricardo characterized as the “smart and grumpy leader/vocalist” of the band – has a sugary sweet voice that any Canadian would find as temping as warm maple syrup. Nico is the wild and talented founder of the band who thrives off playing his guitar loud. Franco is a second guitarist who’s teddybear demeanour should’t fool you; he plays the guitar like Don Draper plays everyone, and is the implementer of many of the bands tinny 13403961_1234528236557742_4324520807253403082_o.jpgand melodic effects. Last is Pato, the drummer, hailing from Concepción, which most Chileans acknowledge as “The Cradle of Rock” due to the fact that many of the country’s important musicians came from there, is a proof of that spirit.
“It’s difficult to classify our band in one specific genre of music”, said Ricardo. “We all appreciate different sounds and styles, so every song has a bit of everyone who makes it. We are a great example of how music in Chile has evolved: we have elements from the past like 80’s rock, and more modern inspirations like shoe gaze and dream pop.”

I admitted to Ricardo that due to my appeal for the classics, upon my first listen to their new album Imaginario, I wasn’t entirely convinced I liked it. However, as it sometimes is with modern artistic compositions, one needs to drop traditionalism and embrace the nuances and eccentricity that make contemporary talent so extraordinary.
“20 years ago we were still living the consequences from the dictatorship times, we have really good bands from those times, but now it’s different” Ricardo explained. “Right now Chile is crowded with so many cool bands; each with an interesting idea and sound. In the past, if you wanted to see a band you just bought a ticket, went to the show and watched­–that’s all. Nowadays, almost all the bands here are friends, and we occasionally collaborate or do intimate gigs in houses and for small crowds, so in the end you get to meet everyone. You see the band and then drink a beer, talk, share life. That’s awesome!”.
I then asked Ricardo how he defines passion, biasedly expecting some rehearsed and stereotypical Latin-male definition on passion, Ricardo humbled me when he said: “I don’t know–maybe you can’t singularly define passion when you have so many”.

A coincidence that is WAY too miraculous to be only chance is that as I was typing the previous paragraph in Manic Coffee on College, a familiar song came on the play list. La Playa by Perfectos 12805794_1165381563472410_6465082836748812563_nExtraños! I was absolutely dumbfounded so I asked the barista if she knew who made the play list. She informed me that she made the playlist based off some “musical gems” she had found on a recent trip to South America. So it seems the current Chilean music scene is already making its presence know here in Canada. And not a moment to soon. Having experienced the music scene in Santiago first hand while visiting, I can attest to the closeness of the community. There is a distinct and hip aura draping over the indie music scene there, yet without the fog of arrogance that usually permeates such culture. This lack of musical egotism in Chile leaves room for creative openness and communal progress. I encourage you to have a listen for yourself. Who knows, maybe out of musical figures such as Tiro de Gracia, Fiskales ad hok, Lucybell, Cristian Cuturrufo, Fother Muckers, Francisca Valenzuel and the critically acclaimed and outspoken present figurehead of Chilean music, Ana Tijoux. There will be a song that sparks your motive to learn Spanish, or at the very least, grant you the privilege to acquaint yourself with a prefect stranger.

*(I’m not going to get into politics here, I’m here to talk about music, but if you don’t know much about South American political history during the 70’s, I highly recommend you enlighten yourself, for if you pull away even a few layers, you will find it’s not only repulsively tragic but also informatively captivating)

* Cueca is a traditional music and dance from Chile
Un millón de gracias a Ricardo y Javier por toda la ayuda en este tema.

What’s your excuse?

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“I’ve always got time for the things I love, but I ain’t got time for excuses” these are the words I sometimes think of when I sense procrastination creeping in while­, blank screen in front of me, trying to write this blog. These are the words of my friend Ricardo, who a year ago was emphasizing his dismay at trying to propel a music project forward but kept receiving excuses from a collaborator. These are words inspired by unremitting passion. Passion has many forms but in whichever appearance it takes, it is almost always true that nothing can hold a person back if they are truly passionate. Sometimes not even good judgement can stand in the way. This was the case the day I decided to put all my belongings and my life into the hands (or should I say thumbs) of two Chilean guys I had met a mere 3 weeks earlier. I had already bought my bus ticket from Chile to Argentina but when–the day before my departure­–I was offered the chance to hitchhike over the Andean mountains with two local guys who worked in the hostel, my passion for the unknown kicked in and not even common sense could stop me. So I tossed the bus ticket (and caution) in the bin, deleted the fact that I was in South America from my brain, strapped all my gear to my back, practiced a few hitching poses in the mirror and headed out.

I’ll spare you the hours of monotony spent curb-side thumbs pointed skyward unsure of whether they were being used as signals or as sundials. Eventually a Big Rig piloted by a friendly and shirtless Brazilian took us on board. As we were climbing Los Caracoles Pass (aptly named for the snail-like trail and pace needed to summit the Andes) I began to talk with my travel companion, Ricardo, about why he was making this trip. He told me how he had always been inspired by music and poetry and was seeking his own “free-wheeling” adventure similar to those of Bolaño, Kerouac or Dylan as a means to stir his own creative spirit. A writer and musician himself, he didn’t feel that stagnating behind some desk in the hot Santiago summer was the path to realizing his passions. Crossing the apex of the mountains, we now had to go through border control and enter Argentina–but where was border control? Having crossed borders in Asia, The Middle East and The U.S.A, I was astonished to see no patrol, no immediate buildings and no fence. In fact, if one wants to enter Argentina illegally, all you have to do is climb over the mountains, walk across and you’re in. We decided to take the legal route and found the building for border control, got “hassled” a little by the Argentinian officers for being Chilean (even myself with a Canadian passport) and then had to ask them for our passport stamps.

I would like to tell you that some big/crazy/scary/strange/drug & gang related thing happened to me while I was hitch-hiking but I honestly can’t say that. The truth is everyone I came across was helpful, kind and a character worth remembering. We even got to stay the night in a picturesque little hotel in the Argentine countryside that once hosted Brad Pitt. There the group of us spent the evening drinking cool beers on the patio and steeping our lungs in the humid valley air.  We arrived in Mendoza the following day in the carriage of different trucker, this time a Chilean, the boys with hunger in their bellies and me with a proposition for marriage if I ever wanted a Chilean trucker husband. I pondered a lot about why these men spend weeks if not months away from home, risking their lives to transport goods for others. For some it may be out of necessity but I believe for most it’s the love of the road, of man and machine and for the love of meeting random travellers from other lands like us. What they drive isn’t what drives them–their passion is; for if you are passionate about something months will seem like days because then, time is irrelevant.

Since hitching, Ricardo has become a dear friend of mine and he is the perfect example of being a passion pioneer. After spending may years writing, creating and playing music on his own, he sought out others who share his hunger for creativity. He now works in Digital Media Marketing where he gets to write quirky content and make fun videos for brands all across Chile. He is also a part of the band Perfectos Extraños. I had a talk with Ricardo recently about the budding success of his band, so be sure to read next week to find out why we should all be paying attention to the music scene in Chile right now.

The Oxford Dictionary defines passion as “An intense desire or enthusiasm for something: A thing arousing great interest and enthusiasm” but we all know it is more personal than that. What we all share is that passion is something you are willing to labor for and probably willing to suffer for. After handing me one excuse or another why they cannot, people often comment about how lucky I’ve been to travel. They always wonder how I’ve managed to have had time to see 30 counties in only 30 years of life. The answer isn’t luck. I work my ass off every year, budget, save and plan so I can go and see this world. I go because I have to; because I love it; because I live for it. After all, I’ve always got time for the things I love, but I ain’t got time for excuses.

 

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Sebastian, Ricardo, Me (before we left Santiago)

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The Brazilian driver and I
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Los Caracoles Pass
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The first truck

 

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The second truck with Me, the Chilean driver, Sebastian

 

 

 

You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy ice cream

 

My friend Teri will testify to the fact that I love ice cream more than anything. She could legally testify to this fact in a courtroom as I once traded her to two guys in Ireland for a carton of ice cream and a bottle of whiskey. Inline with my affection for traveling, there are few things I enjoy as much as a cool, creamy cup of gelato. Accredited to my travels, I have been able to try some distinct and delectable flavours all around the world. With the summer finally upon us, and ice cream on my mind, I have compiled for you a list of my top ice cream places world-wide.

 

Emporio La Rosa – Santiago, Chile

Santiago is a hot place and not just because the average temperature between November to April is 27 degrees. Everything from the music, the art, the food and the people, shows you why this city requires a means for cooling down. At Emporio La Rosa you can beat the heat 25 different ways by trying all their flavours, but I recommend trying the strawberry & black pepper, chocolate basil, rosewater or my favourite – chirimoya (a native Chilean fruit). I will warn you: you’ll probably have to wait in line, but once you try the ice cream, you’ll be lining up every day after that.

 

DelaCrem – Barcelona, SpainIMG_0939

There are few times in life when you can say things are perfect. The perfect city, the perfect day, the perfect coffee or the perfect ice cream. DelaCrem offers all that. They select only the freshest ingredients and hand-craft all of their ice cream in small batches to guarantee you savour perfection. They also do a great espresso, so I recommend trying an affogato with the dulce de leche ice cream if you want a pick me up and a sweet treat in one.

 

Blue Pumpkin – Siem Reap, Cambodia

Cambodia isn’t the first place you would think to look for good, let alone great ice cream. This was what I said when I first tried the pistachio ice cream at Blue Pumpkin. I ate my words along with every melting morsel of that ice cream. And I went back almost every day for ten days. Perhaps because real milk is hard to come by in SE Asia, ice cream isn’t a common commodity, but somehow The Blue Pumpkin got it right. They don’t offer many flavours and keep things simple but what they do make, they make very well.

 

Kekou Gelato – Toronto, CanadaIMG_1061

Asian Gelato. Yes, it’s real gelato! The only difference is that these guys don’t use
stabilizers (gum or gelatine) in their gelato which alters the texture from traditional gelato. Still smooth and creamy, the ice cream here has an array of Asian inspired flavours like Vietnamese coffee, whisky & green tea and the much debated flavour of the “worlds smelliest fruit” – durian. Here you can mix and match to make your own Ice cream sandwich from one of their home baked and incredibly soft cookies. Now with a new location on Queen Street, this place is bound to attract a line up. So get in before they sell out.

 

Hibiscus – Toronto, Canada

Vegetarians, vegans and gluten free-ers, THIS is where you can satiate your love of ice cream without guilt or gut pain. With three different dairy free milk bases used to make their ice cream, Hibiscus has a concise yet imaginary selection of flavours. Try the black sesame or the coconut milk based flavour of sea buckthorn – the berry originally grown in Europe is now being cultivated in Ontario and Hibiscus is one of the first places to put it to use.

 

Murphy’s Ice Cream – Dublin, Ireland.

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Photo credit – Murphy’s Ice Cream

Started in Dingle, Ireland this Ice Cream shop is the real deal. It might actually be my favourite Ice cream in the entire world. I went back to Dublin after my trip in India just so I could get more of this ice cream. If you’ve ever had Irish butter, you know that cream in Ireland is like no other. I highly recommend trying their brown bread flavour. Brown bread ice cream? Murphy’s takes home-baked Irish brown bread (more on this amazing bread another time) caramelize it, and then folds the pieces in during the ice cream mixing and cooling process. The result is something buttery, crispy, sweet, and fluffy. What’s more, Murphy’s uses no added colour or flavouring. What you get is 100% natural and 200% delightful.

 

 

 

 

 

A big thank you to Murphy’s Ice Cream in Dingle, Ireland for the final photo.